Calculate your household energy usage in kWh

You need to know the wattage and electric rate per kWh. For me the electric rate is (13 cents) .13 per kWh. Let’s find out how to get wattage.

How can I find the wattage of a device?

Most devices have a label listing how many watts they use. You can find this wattage label either on the device (usually on the bottom or back) or in the owner’s manual.

Here is a list that shows the common wattage of everyday household devices. Though the wattage of your particular device may vary, it should give you a rough estimate.

Coffee Maker900-1200 watts
Toaster800-1400 watts
Iron100-1800 watts
Ceiling fan65-175 watts
Space heater (40gal)4500-5500 watts
Hair dryer1200-1875 watts
Laptop50 watts
Computer monitor150 watts
Computer tower120 watts
Television 19″-36″65-133 watts
Television 53″-61″170 watts
How to calculate kWh usage

To calculate your energy consumption, you’ll need to multiply an appliance’s wattage by the number of hours you use it in a day. That will give you the number of watt-hours consumed each day.

Calculate watt-hours per day

Device Wattage (watts) x Hours Used Per Day = Watt-hours (Wh) per Day
Example: A 125-watt television used three hours per day
125 watts x 3 hours = 375 Wh/Day

How many watts are in a kilowatt?

Your electricity bill is measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh), not watt-hours. One kilowatt is equal to 1,000 watts. To calculate how many kWh a device uses, divide the watt-hours from the previous step by 1,000.

Convert watt-hours to kilowatts

Device Usage (Wh) / 1000 (Wh/kWh) = Device Usage in kWh
Example: A television using 375 Wh of electricity per day
375 / 1000 = 0.375 kWh

Now that we know how many kWh the appliance uses per day, we can estimate that usage over a month. Let’s multiply by 30 days to simulate an average month.

Find your monthly energy usage

Daily Usage (kWh) x 30 (Days) = Approximate Monthly Usage (kWh/Month)
Example: A television using 0.375 kWh of electricity per day
0.375 kWh x 30 Days = 11.25 kWh/Month

In this example, a 125-watt television you use for three hours per day adds up to 11.25 kWh of energy per month. That is your television’s energy consumption.

To determine how much your appliances cost per month, multiply your electric rate by the estimated monthly usage from the steps above.

How much do appliances cost on my energy bills?

Monthly Usage (kWh) x Electric Rate ($/kWh) = Approximate Cost per Month
Example: A television using 11.25 kWh/Month with an electric rate of 10 cents per kWh ($0.10/kWh)
11.25 kWh x $0.10 = $1.13/Month

Based on these calculations, this television would cost you $1.13 per month. While that might not seem like much, the appliances and devices throughout your home will add up during a full month.

Your UPS would be another source of getting wattage. UPS will show the wattage number of all the devices that are connected. You can use that number to calculate your spending.

Reference

https://www.saveonenergy.com/resources/energy-consumption/

What is transcoding?

A Blu-ray disk contains video chapters and their corresponding audio tracks. the video is generally in h.264 format (think of that as a word document in .docx format). the audio is generally in Dolby digital or DTS formats (think of that as .flac or .mp3).

To get that data off of the disk, you need a way for shit to play it back and a way for those 2 files (the chapter and its audio) to be held together. This is where formats like .mp4 and .mkv come in. Think of those as .7z or .zip or .rar.

Now, if you dump the Blu-ray disk’s audio/video track into .mkv without touching it (ie without attempting to make it any smaller) you’ll have a very large .mkv file (20-40gb in size, depending on if it came from a single or dual layer blu ray disk).

That’s the basic setup we’re working with to answer question on transcoding.

So now there are a number of scenarios. maybe you have a computer in the same house on the same network and that computer can play back anything and everything, because its a computer and the software was designed for it. Plex will simply send the raw file over the network and the player will decode it and play it back.

lets say you’re using something special on your home network like a mobile phone or appleTV or chromecast or something. Those devices are only built to play back certain file formats (the .docx and .flac we spoke of earlier) and they can only read those formats from certain containers (.mkv and .mp4).

In this scenario, plex will do its best to not touch anything possible. but it might need to change it from .mkv to .mp4 or vice versa. it might be forced to do this if you enable subtitles. this takes practically 0 processing power and it will not affect the quality in any way.

lets say you took your video and wanted to make it smaller so you used HEVC (h.265) to re-encode it. This is a lossy encode and is very difficult to encode/decode quickly so a lot of hardware currently doesnt support it. but the resulting file size is tiny in comparison (half or less). but now your appleTV and mobile phone wont play it back because it doesnt know what the heck h.265 is. Now plex will convert on-the-fly to h.264 (this is transcoding) and also change the contianer (also transcoding) in order for the file to be of the appropriate file type for you to be able to play back.

Lets say you have friends and family on varying internet connections/speeds, with varying devices, and you yourself only have limited upload speeds available to you because fuck telecom industry and fuck the FCC.

Now plex can be told to limit bandwidth usage and limit CPU usage for transcoding tasks and limit transcode quality so that you are able to send that file to many people at the same time without completely locking down your computer or your network.

You can also tell plex to store multiple copies of 1 file in different formats so that you dont have to transcode on-the-fly. This would be especially useful for massive files that you can convert slowly to very high quality and keep laying around, so that when a user asks for the file, they are simply sent the file without your CPU and GPU going crazy.

In laymans terms for the most part you dont really need to worry about it. But realistically, you’ll run into weird boundary cases in which some people are not able to play things back properly (stuttering/buffering/freezing) and then you’ll need to understand what is happening under the hood in order to take steps to fix the underlying issue or make smart decisions about when/where to invest money into the setup.

You can read more here.

Difference between 802.3af, 802.3at and 802.3bt PoE?

IEEE has a few standards for PoE to help keep everything working properly. There are three main PoE standards, all varying in the amount of power they supply. There are 802.3af, 802.3at and 802.3bt.

All three of these are referred to as ‘auto-sensing’ PoE, which means if you plug a laptop in to a port with PoE turned on, it won’t blow the device up as a level of auto-negotiation happens between the PoE switch and device, when it asks for power.

802.3af

802.3af is also known as just ‘PoE’ on most switches, it provides up to 15.4W and is most used for less powerful wireless access points and IP cameras. VoIP phones also tend to use 802.3af to as they don’t need a massive amount of power.

802.3at

802.3at is basically the same as 802.3af, but it just provides more power, up to 30W and is generally referred to as ‘PoE+’ on most switches. The higher amount of power allows better quality cameras to be used, such as 4K cameras and PoE switches which are powered up by PoE and provide power down stream, such as the UniFi Switch Flex from Ubiquiti, it is powered by 802.3at on the uplink and can provide 802.3af PoE on four other ports.

802.3bt

802.3bt is one of the newest standards and provides up to 60W to each device it is referred to as PoE++ usually. This is used for really demanding devices, notably lighting products and screens. Ubiquiti has LED light panels for office ceilings which are powered by 802.3bt.